FERROTYPE PRINTS OVERNIGHT

Res. 9/22/01
by Ted Peterson
Most photographers have trouble getting a good gloss on their prints. Either the prints have spots on them or have what we call eggshell spots on them.
The tins are expensive and will be ruined if they get scratched.
A really good glossy print has its place in photography. When you send a print to a newspaper or modeling agency they ask you to send glossy prints.
A good glossy will look better for many different types of pictures. When you give a group of prints to most people, they think glossy prints are better, even if you don't.
Some of the amateur photographers will try to get around making glossys by using glossy paper and drying them in blotter rolls. This will give a semigloss. This is not as good as a good glossy.
I have came up with a way that I am using and would like to share this with you. By using this method, you can correct any bad ferrotype prints when you work.
You go through the regular developing, stop, fixing, washing, hypo clearing agent, and washing.
At this time they put the prints into a pan with print flattener solution for 5-7 minutes with photo flo mixed in.
When you put the print into the flattening solution, you put in th same number of sheets of clear acetate. They can be the same size or a little larger than the prints. This acetate takes the place of the tins and are less expensive. Also you can check then and see if they are working correctly.
You slide a sheet of well wetted acetate under each print with the face of the print down on the acetate. Then lift out one piece of acetate at a time and place it with the back of the print down on a flat surface.
Then line up the print and acetate so the acetate covers the print completely.
Run a hand roller over the acetate-print sandwich so that you get most of the water out. You do not have to use a lot of pressure.
You will be able to observe if good contact is made. If you make a bad contact, put the print and acetate back into the flattening solution and do it over again.
Do not put this sandwich on a dryer or use any heat on it as the acetate will melt into the print and you will have a big mess.
One way that you can dry the print faster is to put them into a blotter roll. Pull it tight to keep the prints from coming off the acetate before they are dry.
You can use a fan to help them dry.
When they are dry. (12 hours or so) all you have to do is peel off the prints.
The acetate will last for years, but if they get bad you are out only $.50 to $1.50 each. Buy the thin acetate so they will roll up in the blotter roll.
Any art store has acetate from size .005 and up. When tins sell from $3.00 to $5.00 each you can see what you can save. Also you can see what you are doing.
Go ahead and try this. Start with a few pieces of acetate first and see this will work ok with you. Let me know what you think about this way on how to ferrotype you prints.
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